Life and Death in Tasiilaq

Tasiilaq on Amassalit Island was our first encounter in East Greenland, having crossed the Denmark Strait in a following sea from Iceland.

With a population of about 1,000 people — one of the largest in East Greenland — Tasiilaq rises steeply out of the water. Red, yellow, green, and blue wooden houses pop like dice off a wrinkled carpet of green. There are no trees, no shrubs to hide the concrete foundations that…